Finding France in Rome - Saint Louis des Français
- Parisian Niche
- 6 days ago
- 4 min read
Listen, Paris is my one true love but lately, I've been finding myself in a scandalous throuple of sorts as I'm also finding myself in love with Italy, especially on my current trip to Rome and Florence. Imagine my utter delight in finding a piece of French "home" right here in Roma - today, let's take a P'Niche peek at the gorgeous church that goes by a trinity of its own names: Saint Louis of the French, San Luigi dei francese - Saint Louis des Français...
Dedicated to the patron saints of France (the Virgin Mary, Saint Denis de Paris, and King Louis IX of France this catholic church stands proudly near the Piazza Navona in Rome.
Over the centuries, it has been a center for French pilgrims and diplomats, as well as a showcase for French religious art and culture abroad. This stunning church serves the French community in Rome to this day.
Commissioned by the French cardinal Giulio de’ Medici, who later became Pope Clement VII, the church was intended as a national church for France snuggled into the heart of the Eternal City.
Construction began in 1518 and was completed in 1589, reflecting the evolving architectural styles of both the later Renaissance and early Baroque periods. The church itself was designed by Giacomo della Porta and built by Domenica Fontana between 1518 and 1589.
Interestingly, the church was only completed through the personal intervention of Catherine de Medici, who had donated some personal property to the area.
Ahead of its time, this (blend of Renaissance and Baroque) façade was made as a striking piece of decorative work, entirely independent of the body of the structure - a method to be copied later.
We see the French character evident, depicting statues of Charlemagne, Saint Louis, Saint Clotilde, and Saint Jeanne of Valois. Some cheeky fleur de lys too!
Let's head inside... the interior features a Latin cross plan with three naves separated by Corinthian columns. The ceiling vaults and chapels are decorated with frescoes (by Charles-Joseph Natoire, recounting the stories of the French heroes) and stucco work that add both depth and color to the sacred space.
The use of light inside the church enhances the artworks and creates an atmosphere of reverence and contemplation.
And that's to say nothing of the trio of Caravaggios! Siren sounds!
One of the main reasons visitors flock to the Church of St Louis of the French is to see the three famous paintings by Caravaggio in the Contarelli Chapel. These works depict scenes from the life of St Matthew and are considered some of the artist’s finest achievements.
The first of the three masterpieces is the truly breathtaking "The Calling of Saint Matthew." The artwork depicts the story from the Gospel of Matthew (Matthew 9:9): "Jesus saw a man named Matthew at his seat in the custom house, sand said to him, "Follow Me," and Matthew rose and followed Him.
This painting captures the moment Jesus calls Matthew to follow Him. Caravaggio’s use of light and shadow (called chiaroscuro) draws the viewer’s eye to the figures, distinctly and dramatically highlighting the transformation of Matthew from tax collector to apostle.
The second of the three masterpieces on display is called "The Inspiration of Saint Matthew."
This piece, in particular, was not an easy commission for Caravaggio, with him having to repaint or replace it several times to the satisfaction of his patron, Cardinal Francesco Maria del Monte.
This work, featured on the altar, shows an angel, who belongs to an aerial and sublime (divine) dimension. The angel's encircling sheet serves almost as a heavenly halo.
Matthew, restless and leaning into his work, regards upward to the angel, who is perhaps whispering to him divine guidance of the work that is yet to come. The entire portrait hovers in the darkness, aside from the two main figures. Chiaroscuro at its finest!
The last of the three paintings is called "The Martyrdom of Saint Matthew."
This intense scene portrays the violent death of St Matthew. The dynamic poses and vivid expressions convey the chaos and sacrifice of martyrdom.
That said, this painting seems to contain many references from Michelangelo (my love!), Raphael, and others. Critic John Gash notes that this is "not so much a need to find appropriate poses as to desire for a quality of monumental grandeur akin to the High Renaissance." Le Swoon!
While the Caravaggios are the highlight, there is definitely more than meets the eyes here...
San Luigi dei Francese houses works by several other notable artists. The ceiling frescoes by Domenichino depict scenes from the life of St Louis and add to the church’s rich visual narrative. The chapels contain altarpieces and sculptures by artists such as Pierre Le Gros the Younger, whose baroque sculptures enhance the church’s dramatic effect.
The stained glass windows and intricate marble floors also contribute to the church’s artistic value. Each element reflects the skill and devotion of the artists and craftsmen who contributed to this sacred space.
In our modern times, San Luigi dei Francese continues to serve as a place of worship and a cultural landmark. It hosts regular masses, including services in French, maintaining its connection to the French community in Rome.
Private guided tours (booked directly through the parish) and ongoing educational programs help you embrace the historical context and artistic significance of the church.
Ready to visit San Luigi dei Francese? Yay!
San Luigi dei Francese
Piazza di S. Luigi dei Francese, 00186, Roma
The church is open for public viewing from 10:00am to 12:30pm, and then again at 3:00pm to 7:00pm, daily except Thursdays.
Mass is celebrated on Sundays at 10:30am, on Saturdays at 12:30pm, and on Mondays to Fridays at 7pm.
Note: Shoulders and knees must be covered to enter the church and visit.
So what do you think, P'Nicher? Ready to branch into Rome to visit this Renaissance/Baroque artist's jewel box or have you been already and "totally get the hype?" Let us know in the comments below et à bientôt! I mean a presto! ;)
Even Francis I's salamander! Wow, Chrissy! What a gem.